Commercial Blueberry Farming in Virginia: A Beginner’s Guide

Introduction

Blueberries, from the genus Vaccinium, are small fruits from the Ericaceae family that can be grown in the ground or in containers. Small fruits are defined as fruits growing on bushes or low-growing perennial plants. These fruits are well known for their vibrant color, sweet to tart flavor, and nutrient profile. Blueberries are native to North America but are now grown across the globe. They are incredibly versatile and are often used in baked goods, jams, and juices in addition to being eaten fresh. In Virginia, blueberries are a popular crop for the home garden and a favorite among berry crop growers (Figure 1). While the state has a hardiness zone range from 5B to 8B, there are still many blueberry cultivars that can grow successfully with high yields. It is important to note that there are a few major groups of blueberry types, and not all will do well in Virginia’s climate, especially in colder regions.

Market Potential

Blueberries are a versatile small fruit crop with a diverse range of post-harvest uses. Globally, blueberries are in high demand, and production has increased significantly over the past 10 years.  In 2024, blueberry reached its highest production at 789.5 million pounds, with cultivated production valued at $1.15 billion (Wakefield 2025). Blueberries also have a long post-harvest shelf life compared to other small fruits and freeze well for future use. Growers that meticulously manage their blueberry crops and have access to ready markets can yield significant per-acre income.

There are multiple opportunities for blueberries to be marketed. Important factors to consider when determining a marketing strategy are the scale of the operation, demand from surrounding communities, location, post-harvest quality, labor, and competitors. Direct marketing strategies include farmer’s markets and pick-your-own (PYO) operations (Figure 2). 

Operating a successful PYO business requires entrepreneurial planning and attention to customer experience. Key considerations include parking and traffic flow management, advertising, clean facilities and signage, ordering supplies, training seasonal staff, and clear pricing and weighing procedures. On average, it takes about 450 customers to harvest one acre of blueberries (approximately 6,000 pounds) (Strang, Jones, Masabni et al. 2003). Proper liability insurance is critical for PYO operations, as standard farm insurance may not cover public access. Fruit sold by weight must be weighed on Virginia state-inspected scales, while sales by volume do not have the same legal oversight. The USDA’s Agricultural Prices reports provide monthly updates on average national and regional farm prices, offering a helpful benchmark for setting competitive pricing: https://usda.library.cornell.edu/concern/publications/c821gj76b. Additionally, growers must understand their local customer base and competition to promote effectively.

Wholesale marketing is another viable strategy, particularly for larger-scale growers with the capacity to meet packing and shipping standards. This approach may include sales to wholesale produce brokers, supplying regional grocery chains, collaborating with schools, local restaurants and markets or small retailers, or selling to neighboring roadside stands or tailgate markets. Entering wholesale markets typically requires consistent volume and quality, standardized packaging and labeling, cooling and transportation infrastructure, and a clear understanding of buyer requirements and logistics. Although wholesale prices are generally lower than direct sales, the efficiency of bulk transactions and reduced marketing efforts can make this approach attractive for some growers.

Blueberry Types and Cultivar Selection

There are five major types of blueberries that are grown in the United States: northern highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum), southern highbush (V. corymbosum x V. darrowii), lowbush (V. angustifolium), rabbiteye (V. virgatum), and half-high (V. corymbosum x V. angustofolium). For Virginia growers, the suggested types include northern highbush, southern highbush, and rabbiteye. The major differences between these types involve their required chilling hours, cold hardiness, and soil adaptability. Chilling hours refers to the amount of time that plants spend in temperatures below 45°F in the dormant season (Samtani, Rafie, and Wolf 2022). This cold exposure is very important, as it helps plants break dormancy in the springtime to initiate fruit production. Cold hardiness refers to a plant’s ability to withstand colder temperatures. Soil adaptability refers to the ability of a blueberry species to grow in a wide range of soil types. There are hundreds of cultivars within these types, with different ripening times, fruit traits, and growth patterns. Growers can “extend” the blueberry season by planting multiple cultivars that ripen at different times. Before purchasing, be sure to research what the exact needs of the cultivar are, especially in regard to chilling hours and ripening times. 

Northern Highbush

Northern highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum) are native to the northern east coast of the United States. This type of blueberry performs best in northern Virginia and in mountainous areas. These plants grow to be 5 to 9 feet tall and are mostly self-fertile. They require 800 to 1,000 chilling hours. 

Patriot and Duke are early-season northern highbush cultivars, typically fruiting from early June to early July. Patriot bears firm, large fruit and has high productivity with very good flavor. Duke bears firm, large fruit with good flavor (Figure 3).

Bluecrop and Legacy are mid-season northern highbush cultivars, typically fruiting from mid-June to late July. Bluecrop bears firm, large fruit with good flavor. Legacy bears firm, large fruit with excellent flavor (Sciarappa and Pavlis 2005).

Elliott and Jersey are late-season northern highbush cultivars, typically fruiting from early July to mid-August. Elliot bears firm, medium fruit with tart flavor. Jersey bears medium fruit and has high productivity with good flavor.

Southern Highbush

Southern highbush blueberries were created by crossing northern highbush blueberries with Florida native Vaccinium species. This type of blueberry is recommended for amended, sandy-loam soils in central and southern Virginia. These plants grow to be 6 to 9 feet tall and are self-fertile. They require 250 to 900 chilling hours; lower-chill southern highbush are not recommended for Virginia due to the risk of crop loss due to spring freezes. Most southern highbush varieties are early season.

Star and O’Neal are early-season southern highbush cultivars that may perform well in coastal areas but are likely to bloom too early for most of the state. Star bears large to very large fruits with moderate vigor. This cultivar is susceptible to fruit splitting during rainy weather and ripens beginning in mid-May. O’Neal is a popular cultivar that bears medium fruits with moderate vigor and very good flavor that ripens beginning in mid-May in coastal Virginia (Figure 4) (Samtani, Rafie and Wolf 2022).

Camellia and Magnolia are mid-season southern highbush cultivars. Camellia bears large fruits and has moderate vigor that ripens beginning in late May. Magnolia bears medium fruits and has good vigor that ripens in late May and June.

Rabbiteye

Rabbiteye blueberries (V. virgatum) are native to the southeastern United States. These plants grow to be 6 to 10 feet tall and are partially to completely self-fertile depending on the cultivar. They require 250 to 800 chilling hours. Rabbiteye blueberries have wide soil adaptation and will survive better in soils containing silt or clay, compared to highbush and southern highbush.

Premier and Titan are early-season rabbiteye cultivars. Premier bears medium to large berries and has moderate vigor that ripens from early June to July (Figure 5). Titan is a newer cultivar that bears very large berries and has excellent vigor (Samtani, Rafie and Wolf 2022). However, Titan is prone to rain-splitting.

Tifblue and Centurion are mid- to late-season cultivars. Tifblue bears small to medium fruits that ripen from late June to early July. However, Tifblue is known to split in wet weather. Centurion is a late-season cultivar that bears medium fruits with good sweetness.

Plant Sources

Blueberry plants are typically sold either as bare-root or containerized stock, most often at two years of age. Note that purchasing plants that are at least 2-3 years old will provide fruit sooner. For commercial production, it's best to purchase from nurseries that specialize in small fruit crops. Because nursery supplies can be limited and popular cultivars may sell out quickly, it’s important to place orders well in advance of the intended planting date. Although containerized plants are more expensive, they tend to have higher survival rates and produce fruit earlier, thanks to their undisturbed root systems. However, bare-root plants can also establish well and perform successfully when properly managed. After receiving the plants, the roots should be inspected to ensure plants are disease-free and have healthy root systems. For a complete guide of plant sources, refer to VCE publication SPES-481NP, “Shoppers Guide for Berry Plants in the Mid-Atlantic and the Carolinas”.

Location, Soil Needs & Planting

The ideal planting site should maintain the following factors: surface-water drainage, non-obstructed air flow, acidic soil, and accessibility. A sloped location with the proper soil characteristics can achieve the necessary qualifications for an ideal site. A sloped site allows cold air to flow away from the planting, reducing the risk of spring frost damage to developing flower buds. Surface-water drainage is also important, so excess rainfall can quickly move off sloped fields, helping to prevent waterlogging and root disease, both of which blueberries are particularly sensitive to. 

Blueberries are typically grown in raised beds which are around 8 to 12 inches tall and 4 to 5 feet wide. After marking the area for the rows, raised beds can be formed with tractor implements such as a moldboard plow or disc-hiller (Figure 6). For optimal light interception, orient rows north to south when possible. However, on poorly drained or sloped sites, aligning rows parallel to the slope is recommended to minimize water pooling in the beds. In such cases, seeding the drive rows with a permanent grass cover will help prevent erosion. Row spacing should be 10 to 14 feet on center to accommodate machinery and allow sufficient space for mature plant growth. For PYO operations, rows should not exceed 200 feet in length without a cross path or drive row to ensure easy customer access.

Regarding soil, blueberries grow best in moist, sandy soils that are high in organic matter with a pH ranging from 4.2 to 5.2 (Samtani, Rafie and Wolf 2022). It is important to have your soil tested at least one year before the planned planting. After initial testing, soil tests should be done at least every three years. These tests provide important information, including nutrient levels, pH, amounts of organic matter, and potential contaminants. The reports often include suggestions for limestone and fertilizer rates. However, it can take time for the soil pH to change after adding sulfur or limestone. Sulfur can be used to lower soil pH, while lime has the opposite effect; blueberries rarely need lime. Enhancing soil organic matter (OM) levels is particularly beneficial in soils with less than 3% OM, improving soil structure, moisture retention, and nutrient availability. Organic amendments should be applied preplant, either banded over the row and incorporated or placed directly into the planting hole at the time of transplanting. Recommended materials include sphagnum peat moss, pine fines, composted leaves, or well-aged sawdust or bark mulch. If using peat in the planting hole or in a subsurface band, ensure it is thoroughly wetted and mixed with the soil prior to planting to prevent root zone moisture stress.

Planting schedules for blueberries should be determined based on seasonal conditions, soil firmness, temperature, elevation, and the specific growing region. For commercial operations, bare-root plants are best established in late winter/early spring (February to March), while containerized stock can be planted in the fall (September to November), except in high-elevation areas where winter injury is a concern. Fall planting provides several benefits, including improved root establishment before winter and accelerated shoot growth the following spring. In contrast, spring planting may be delayed by excessive soil moisture, often resulting in limited root development and reduced plant vigor by the end of the first growing season, which can negatively impact early yields.

Spacing varies depending on the blueberry type due to their size at maturation. Highbush blueberries should be planted 4 to 5 feet apart within row, while rows should be about 8 to 10 feet apart (Figure 7). Rabbiteye cultivars should be planted 6 feet apart and rows should be around 10 to 12 feet apart (Samtani, Rafie and Wolf 2022). Plants should be set in holes at least twice the diameter of the root ball, and each bed should be raised to the same depth as they were growing in the nursery.  Holes can be dug by hand or with a tool like an auger. While planting, keep the exposed roots of bare-root plants and containerized plants watered. As soon as both types of nursery plants are planted, the base should be watered thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.

Row middles should be seeded with a permanent grass after planting. The grass allows for easy equipment access, decreases parasitism of resources from weeds, and slows down soil erosion. Keep in mind that the permanent grass needs to be tolerant of acidic soils. Fescue grass and perennial rye grass are good recommendations.

Mulching

Mulching is a key component of routine maintenance in commercial blueberry production and provides several agronomic benefits. Research has consistently shown that mulch promotes larger, more vigorous plants, increases yield potential, and helps stabilize soil temperatures. It also plays an essential role in moisture retention and weed suppression. The choice of mulch should be based on soil type, drainage, and production goals. On well-drained soils, mulching is highly beneficial. However, caution is advised when mulching poorly drained, heavy, or consistently wet soils, where excess moisture may lead to root stress or disease.

The most commonly used organic mulch is a mix of composted sawdust and hardwood chips, which helps avoid surface crusting (Strang, Jones, Masabni et al. 2003, 4). Pine or other softwoods are often preferred due to their naturally lower pH (3.5–4.5), making them more compatible with blueberries' acidic soil requirements, compared to hardwoods, which tend to have pH levels above 5.0. Inorganic mulches, such as woven landscape fabric or plastic mats, offer superior weed control but do not contribute organic matter to the soil, which is essential for long-term soil health and root development. Apply mulch in a 3 to 6-inch layer over the soil surface, focusing around the base of the plants or in row centers (Figure 8). Reapplication is generally needed every 2 to 3 years to maintain adequate coverage and organic matter content.

While mulching offers many benefits, growers should be aware of potential drawbacks, including nitrogen immobilization, financial costs, and long-term commitment. Fresh mulch materials, especially those with high carbon content, can tie up nitrogen during decomposition. This microbial activity occurs at the soil-mulch interface and often requires 2 to 3 times the standard nitrogen application rate to compensate. Mulching also adds significant costs to the operation– not only for the material itself but also for labor, equipment, and increased fertilizer requirements. Once mulched, a field must be maintained with periodic reapplication to support the shallow root system of blueberry plants. Neglecting to reapply mulch can lead to root exposure, moisture stress, and reduced plant vigor. To minimize nitrogen loss, one effective strategy is to use well-decomposed mulch or composted organic material, which has already undergone much of the microbial breakdown process and demands less supplemental nitrogen.

Pollination

Most northern highbush and southern highbush blueberries are self-fertile, but research shows that cultivar diversity can enhance cross-pollination, resulting in larger berries, higher yields, and earlier fruit ripening. To maximize cross-pollination, it’s essential to consider the compatibility and bloom timing of the cultivars. Plant cultivars in alternating blocks, with two to four rows per block, to promote effective pollination. Rabbiteye blueberries may be self-fertile or partially self-fertile to varying degrees, meaning some cultivars require at least two different cultivars with similar maturation rates for optimal pollination and fruit production. Blueberry pollination is entirely dependent on pollinating insects. If an insect does not visit the flower, a berry will not form.

The choice of pollinator is another key factor in increasing flower visitation and berry set. Wild bees, especially bumblebees, are highly effective at pollinating blueberries. Additionally, introducing honeybee hives during bloom can boost cross-pollination. For best results, place one or two hives per acre, within 100 yards of the field. During hive placement, avoid using insecticides to protect the bees from harm. If you’re looking to lease hives, check the Virginia VDACS Beekeeper List: https://www.vdacs.virginia.gov/plant-industry-services-va-pollinator-beekeeper.shtml#southside. You can also contact your local extension office for a list of beekeepers in your area who may be available for hive leasing.

Irrigation

As previously stated, blueberries have shallow root systems that typically extend only 1.5 to 2 feet into the soil. These root systems are less efficient at absorbing nutrients and water due to the limited number of fine root hairs. Blueberries perform best in constant but moderate soil moisture. It is key to maintain the proper balance between soil moisture, root saturation, and drainage. If the soil is too wet, it may become a breeding ground for soil-borne diseases and root rot. For mature plants, aim for four to six gallons of water per plant per day, or roughly one inch of water per week per acre. During periods when the plants are carrying a full crop load, water needs can increase to about two inches per week. As mulch breaks down, irrigation requirements may also rise. Multiple short cycles of watering throughout the day ensure that the soil stays moist without the concern of waterlogging. To monitor soil moisture levels accurately, consider investing in a tensiometer or another moisture-measuring tool to ensure that the soil remains in optimal balance.

Selecting the right irrigation system is critical for efficient water delivery and minimizing disease risk. While overhead irrigation can be beneficial for frost protection during spring frost events, it requires large volumes of water. Drip irrigation, on the other hand, is more efficient and delivers water directly to the root zone where it’s needed most. Micro-emitter systems are particularly effective as they wet a larger surface area compared to traditional point-source drip systems. However, micro-emitter systems can be more vulnerable to damage, especially in PYO operations. Many irrigation equipment suppliers offer consultation and system design services tailored to their products. Additionally, your local extension office can provide recommendations for local irrigation suppliers and technical assistance.

Fertilization

Several factors influence the fertilization needs of blueberries, including plant age, species, soil pH, mulch type/condition, and irrigation practices. The primary nutrients that are found in most fertilizers are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Nitrogen is the most important nutrient to keep track of, as it drives plant vigor and fruit growth. N application should gradually increase from planting until it reaches a maximum level. A general guideline is to apply 20 pounds of nitrogen per acre in the first year, and then increase the amount by 20 pounds annually until reaching 80 to 100 pounds per acre by years four to six. The ideal nitrogen rate varies depending on site conditions and plant growth, but 80 pounds per acre is generally considered the minimum for most soils. The first application after planting (10 pounds per acre) should be done at 4 weeks. After this, two more applications (5 pounds per acre) should be applied after six-week intervals. For mature plants, the total amount of N should be split between early spring before the buds open, and again 6 to 8 weeks later. Rabbiteye blueberries are quite vigorous and require less nitrogen. Over-fertilizing of rabbiteyes will result in excessive bush growth.

There are several forms of nitrogen fertilizers available to commercial growers. Blueberries primarily utilize ammonium (NH4+) nitrogen rather than nitrate (NO3-) nitrogen, so ammonium sulfate (21% N) is an excellent choice. This fertilizer is not only in the most plant-available form but also helps acidify the soil, maintaining a low pH. When the soil pH drops to 5.0 or below, other nitrogen sources, such as urea or a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10, can be used. It's important to monitor soil pH/nutrient levels regularly, at least every two years. If significant pH adjustment is needed, sulfur can be applied to the soil surface. Blueberry plants exhibiting high pH often show interveinal chlorosis, symptomized by yellowing between the veins, with green veins remaining. Interveinal chlorosis can also occur when iron uptake is hindered by poor aeration in the root zone.

Phosphorus (P) typically doesn't require surface application, as it binds with topsoil and doesn’t leach downward. However, in lighter soils, where phosphorus moves more easily, levels should be monitored. Potassium, on the other hand, is more mobile and can be depleted through uptake. If soil tests show low potassium levels, apply supplemental potassium either on the soil surface or through the irrigation system.

Soil moisture plays a crucial role in nutrient availability. Excessive water from heavy rainfall or over-irrigation can lead to nutrient leaching, particularly nitrogen and potassium, while also making nutrients more readily available for plant uptake. This is especially true if fertilizer is applied in large amounts or not split into multiple applications. Conversely, drought conditions limit nutrient release, and over-applying fertilizer during dry periods may damage the roots.

Pruning

While blueberries don’t require annual pruning for survival, regular pruning is essential for maximizing yields, fruit size, and the plant’s long-term health. Pruning should be done during the dormant season, with late winter being the optimal time.

At planting, bare-root blueberry plants typically have one-third to two-thirds of their branches removed to balance top growth with root development. The remaining one to three strong canes per plant should be cut back to about 50% of their length, leaving a strong bud. For containerized plants, remove weak, twiggy growth and perform moderate heading cuts. Additionally, any flower buds should be removed at this stage to prevent early fruiting, which can stress young plants. This removal should be done during the first two years of development. 

In the second year, pruning should focus on removing weak, damaged, or diseased wood and removing any remaining flower buds to promote vegetative growth. By the third year, flower buds can be left on the most vigorous shoots to allow the plant to begin fruiting. In the fourth year, a light crop may be harvested, but flower buds should be thinned to avoid over-fruiting, which can cause the shoots to bend and reduce overall plant health. From the fifth year on, annual pruning should consist of the following:

• Removing small, twiggy growth at the base of the plant and cutting out any dead or diseased wood.
  
  
• Cutting out older canes at ground level: remove one cane for every six canes present. This is the most important step in maintaining a productive blueberry planting, as it encourages new shoot development. Old and new cane can be distinguished by their color. Old canes are greyish, while new canes are a light green-brown.
  
  
• Heading back tall new shoots to encourage branching at lower levels and to help control the plant’s height.
  
  
• Thinning dense growth in the upper part of the canopy by removing crossing and thin branches by up to 50% (Figure 9). Though time-consuming, this detailed pruning can significantly improve fruit size.
   

Here is an excellent video created by the University of Maine detailing the process of pruning a highbush blueberry plant: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fm6ZfpGy5oQ. An illustrated guide on how to prune a blueberry plant and information on tools is available on the UGA Cooperative Extension website: https://site.extension.uga.edu/colquitthomeowners/2022/01/pruning-blueberries/.

Weed Control

Effective weed management is crucial for maintaining the health of your blueberry planting. Weeds compete with plants for water, nutrients, and, in the case of new plantings, space and light. Regular mulching is an effective method to suppress weed growth, but keep in mind that weeds can still infiltrate as the mulch breaks down over time.

For general weed control, hand pulling or spot spraying with a commonly used herbicide like Roundup (glyphosate) is typically sufficient. It is important to dig weeds out as shallowly as possible to avoid damaging blueberry roots. For perennial weeds that emerge within the row, it’s best to either dig them out manually or treat them with a translocated, systemic herbicide such as Roundup™.  Use a shielded sprayer with all herbicides to prevent contact with the blueberry plants. These systemic herbicides target the regenerative underground plant parts, helping to eliminate the weeds at the root. To prevent grass and weed seed from spreading into the mulched areas, it's important to regularly mow row middles. Keeping these areas well-maintained reduces the chances of grass invasion and minimizes the risk of weed seed drop into the planting rows.

Several pre-emergent herbicides such as Alion™ are also available for blueberries (Chaudhari, Hanson and Zandstra 2020). These can be applied to the surface of the mulch to prevent weed seeds from germinating. Be sure to follow label instructions carefully to avoid any plant damage. 

Virginia Tech has a helpful weed identification guide https://weedid.cals.vt.edu/ . Additionally, the 2025 Southeast Regional Blueberry Integrated Management Guide is a helpful resource that recommends herbicides for specific weed problems https://fieldreport.caes.uga.edu/publications/AP123-5/2025-southeast-regional-blueberry-integrated-management-guide/. This guide is also a useful resource for other pests including insects, diseases and large animals.

Insects and Diseases

Insect and disease management is a matter of keeping current knowledge, preparation, and maintaining adequate cultural conditions and healthy plants to prevent problems. Growers should familiarize themselves with the potential pest problems in their region and understand the biology and life cycles of these pests to target control measures more effectively. Both insecticides and fungicides are available for use on blueberries, and each product has specific application rates for both one-time and seasonal use. Be sure to follow the label regarding re-entry intervals, pre-harvest restrictions, and target-pest activity guidelines carefully.

Key insect pests affecting blueberries include blueberry maggots, aphids, beetles and spotted wing drosophila (SWD). Adult blueberry maggots (Rhagoletis mendax) are active from June to August (Guédot and van Zoeren 2018). They lay their eggs inside the skin of developing fruits, typically hatching a week later. Once hatched, the maggots feed on the fruit, causing the berry to become soft and shriveled (Figure 10). Spotted wing drosophila (Drosophila suzukii) causes similar problems, as eggs are also laid inside the fruit. A simple “float” test can be done on fruits to determine if they are infested with blueberry maggots or SWD. Gather 2-4 cups of fruit and add them to a saltwater mixture (1 tablespoon of salt per cup of water). Gently crush the berries and allow them to sit in the water for 20 minutes before checking. The saltwater causes larvae to be expelled from the fruit, and there will be small white larvae floating in the container if the fruits are infested.

Common diseases in blueberries include mummy berry disease, Botrytis, fruit/leaf spots, and other fungal fruit rots. Mummy berry disease is a common and devastating fungal disease (Monilinia vaccinii-corymbosi) that causes significant yield loss due to shoot loss and fruit mummification (Figure 11) (Stafne, Melanson, Layton et al. 2024). If infected berries are left on the ground, they will sprout apothecia (cup mushrooms) that will produce spores and re-infect the plants. Botrytis (grey mold) is another common fungal disease that is prevalent during harvest. Unripe berries will shrivel and fall from the branch, while mature fruits may have fuzzy, grey mold on them (Figure 12). Once disease is confirmed, implement a targeted preventative spray program. As mentioned above, the 2025 Southeast Regional Blueberry Pest Management Guide is a great resource for weed management as well as disease and pest control, and includes recommended pesticides/fungicides for specific problems: https://fieldreport.caes.uga.edu/publications/AP123-5/2025-southeast-regional-blueberry-integrated-management-guide/.

Organic Production

Blueberries are well-suited for organic production, often requiring fewer insecticide and fungicide inputs when effective cultural practices are implemented. In many cases, pests and diseases can be managed through techniques such as site selection, sanitation, mulching, and proper pruning. Additionally, an increasing number of approved organic spray products are available to support growers in meeting organic standards. Organic fertilizers such as composted manure and other natural amendments can be used in place of synthetic chemical fertilizers.

Growers pursuing organic certification should begin planning early, as the process can take several years and involves strict adherence to specific practices. Activities such as the use of prohibited herbicides can delay or disqualify certification, making it essential to align all farm management decisions with organic standards from the outset. Organic certification must be obtained before a product can be marketed as "organically grown." In Virginia, certification is conducted by accredited private certifiers operating under USDA National Organic Program (NOP) guidelines. Certification costs vary and may include application fees, annual inspections, and ongoing documentation requirements. For pest management in organic production, refer to the 2025 Southeast Regional Organic Blueberry Pest Management Guide: https://fieldreport.caes.uga.edu/publications/AP125-5/2025-southeast-regional-organic-blueberry-pest-management-guide/. For more information on organic blueberry production and certification, the following resources are recommended:

• Virginia Association for Biological Farming (VABF): https://vabf.org/
• Virginia Department of Agriculture (VDACS) Certified Organic: https://www.vdacs.virginia.gov/sales-certified-organic.shtml
• USDA Organic Certification and Accreditation: https://www.ams.usda.gov/services/organic-certification
• USDA Organic Regulations: https://www.ams.usda.gov/rules-regulations/organic
• USDA National Organic Program (NOP): https://www.ams.usda.gov/about-ams/programs-offices/national-organic-program

Predator Control

Bird predation is the most significant pest issue for commercial blueberry growers and should be considered carefully when selecting a planting site. Locations near roosting or nesting habitats such as woodlands, grassy fields, hedgerows, water sources, powerlines, or isolated trees are more vulnerable to bird damage. Choosing a site with minimal nearby cover or perching areas can substantially reduce bird pressure. There are some other methods to decrease bird predation, such as netting and scare devices. Typically, netting includes using a durable and UV-protected polyethylene netting with ½ inch mesh size to drape over the bushes, preventing birds and large insects from accessing the fruits. Netting is an effective strategy; however, some ground-traveling birds may be able to enter through the bottom if not secured properly. There are a variety of scare devices, such as reflective tape, predator decoys, distress sounds, and ultrasonic repellers. Scare devices have shown moderate success, but lose their effectiveness over time as birds become habituated. A good strategy may be to switch out the type of scare device used if you notice that birds are ignoring it.

Other potential animal pests include deer, voles, and other rodents. Deer will feed on the branches, leaves, and fruits of blueberry bushes even in the winter. Fencing (generally at least 8 ft. tall) and netting can be used to deter deer, as well as sound and taste-based repellants. Voles and other rodents are attracted to mulched areas and can damage the roots, which is especially important in newly established or stressed plants. Check the plants and the surrounding area for chewed stems, droppings, burrow openings, and visible runways. Voles typically leave a 1 to 2 inch wide flat path through grass and vegetation. Control options include removing food and shelter sources (regularly mowing grass, picking up fallen fruits, etc.), trapping, and repellents. If vole populations are high, it may be best to contact a pest control service. Integrated pest management strategies that combine preventive site selection with active control measures will offer the most effective long-term protection from wildlife damage.

Harvesting and Handling

Well-managed, mature blueberry plants can produce yields of 10 pounds per plant or more. Harvest timing and duration vary by cultivar, seasonal weather patterns, and pruning practices, with harvests typically extending over several weeks.

To ensure optimal fruit quality, berries should be harvested when they reach full, uniform color—an indicator of peak ripeness. Picking should occur every 5 to 7 days once the first ripe fruit appears. For southern highbush cultivars, allowing 7 to 8 days between harvests can enhance flavor development. Mechanical harvesting can be done on a large scale with over-the-row (OTR) harvesters or on a smaller scale using catcher frames; however, this adds substantial costs, introduces debris (leaves, twigs, green berries) that must be removed, and increases the likelihood of internal fruit bruising. When hand picking, use small buckets or shallow trays with slanted sides that allow for airflow. Avoid placing berries deeper than 4 to 5 inches in a container; this prevents excessive weight on the berries, which helps reduce bruising and squishing. Remove any overripe, soft, or damaged fruit during the packing process to maintain a high-quality pack and reduce the spread of decay. Do not wash the berries before storage or sale, as this removes the natural waxy bloom that protects fruit quality and reduces shelf life.

Blueberries have good postharvest storage potential when handled properly. Pre-picked fruit can be stored for up to two weeks under cold storage conditions of 33°F to 35°F and 85% relative humidity. However, in ambient temperatures (around 70°F), shelf life decreases significantly—expect only 2 to 3 days before noticeable quality decline in an open market setting.

References

Chaudhari, Sushila, Eric Hanson, and Bernard Zandstra. 2020. “Blueberry weed control updates for 2020”. Michigan State University Extension. https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/blueberry_weed_control_updates

Guédot, Christelle and Janet van Zoeren. 2018. “Blueberry Maggot”. Wisconsin Horticulture Division of Extension. XHT1264. https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/blueberry-maggot/

Sciarappa, William and Gary Pavlis. 2005. “Selecting Blueberry Varieties for the Home Garden”. New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station. FS419. https://njaes.rutgers.edu/fs419/

Samtani, Jayesh B., Reza Rafie & Tony K. Wolf. 2022. “Small Fruit in the Home Garden”. Virginia Cooperative Extension. 426-840 (SPES-399P). https://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/426/426-840/426-840.html

Stafne, Eric T., Rebecca Melanson, Blake Layton, et al. 2024. “Establishment and Maintenance of Blueberries”. Mississippi State University Extension Service. Publication 1758 (POD-01-24). https://extension.msstate.edu/publications/establishment-and-maintenance-blueberries.

Strang, John R., Terry Jones, Joe Masabni, et al. 2003. “Growing Highbush Blueberries in Kentucky.” University of Kentucky College of Agriculture Cooperative Extension Service. HO-60. https://publications.mgcafe.uky.edu/ho-60.

Wakefield, Helen. 2025. “Most cultivated blueberries are destined for fresh market, while wild blueberries are bound for processing.” U.S. Department of Agriculture Economic Research Service. https://www.ers.usda.gov/data-products/charts-of-note/113313.