Native Plants in the Landscape: Maintaining Native Plants

In many ways, maintaining native plants is similar to maintaining other plants in the landscape, but there are some differences. Native plants generally look and grow differently than non-native plants. They are often planted in a way to create a community, referred to as “naturalistic design” because it mimics natural plant communities. This means that maintenance of the entire system, as well as individual plants, must be considered. Also, understanding design goals and reasons for including native plants in the landscape are important factors in developing a maintenance plan.

Properly maintained native plants create a strong, healthy, and beneficial landscape ecosystem that connects to and supports the surrounding environment. Ideally, a maintenance plan should be developed during the landscape design process, but it can also be created for the whole landscape or any part of it at any time. The goal is to develop a plan that meets design objectives, keeps the plants healthy, and uses resources efficiently. Also, if a property owner is going to hire someone else to do the maintenance, a plan that clearly outlines specific tasks and a timeline will help the landscape contractor understand expectations, especially if they differ from the maintenance practices used on other parts of the property.

Too many native plants are mowed, pulled out, or sprayed with herbicide because someone thought they were weeds. Maintenance considerations and practices covered in this publication apply to seeds, annuals, perennials, vines, shrubs, and trees, and address installation, establishment, and long-term maintenance periods.

Installation

Decisions and activities at the time of installation impact how the plants establish and grow, ultimately impacting the types and frequency of maintenance tasks. 

During the installation phase, keep these maintenance considerations in mind:

• Properly prepare the planting site. The site should be free of debris like rocks, branches, and weeds that would hinder the establishment of new plants. If the planting area includes invasive species or difficult perennial weeds like nutsedge or bermudagrass, they should be controlled before planting; this may require multiple herbicide treatments several months before the actual planting begins. It is much easier to get these aggressive intruders under control before an area is planted than afterward, when control options are fewer and removing them could harm new plants. In addition, keep in mind that healthy soils support healthy plants and help them resist pests and diseases. Consider testing the soil for pH and nutrient levels. Native plants generally do not need fertilizer or organic matter like compost added to the soil, but sometimes these amendments are needed, and the only way to tell is with a soil test. In fact, soil that is too “rich” could stunt new growth, cause leggy growth, or even kill native plants. So, test to know exactly what is there and what is needed or not. Make sure the soil drains well; if it doesn’t, plant natives that are tolerant of wet soil. Soil in developed landscapes is often compacted, and in some cases, the top layer of soil has been scraped off and hauled away. Sometimes fresh soil has been dumped to fill or level a site. These situations can cause poor drainage. Loosen the soil 6-8 inches deep with a digging fork before planting so new roots can grow into the soil quickly. For more information on weed control, soil testing, and planting shrubs and trees, visit the Virginia Cooperative Extension website (see Resources section) and search under the publications tab.
• Purchase high-quality plants. Make sure both the top growth and the roots look healthy. There should be no obvious insects or diseases, deformed or broken branches or wounds (especially on tree trunks), or weeds in the container. Top growth should be proportional to the root ball, especially for shrubs and trees, which can become root-bound in containers. Do not bring home problems that will lead to more maintenance.
• Space plants according to their mature size (figs. 1, 2, and 3). Consider the plant’s growth potential both vertically and horizontally. For example, if a perennial or shrub will grow to 3 feet wide (spread), then space the center of the plant 3 feet from the center of other plants so that when they are mature, plants edge-touch but don’t overlap and crowd each other. Also consider the spread at maturity when planting next to a structure, so plant roots don’t grow into the foundation or the plant’s canopy doesn’t rub against the side of a building or fence. Also consider the plant’s height and group taller plants in the center or back of a bed, with shorter plants underneath them or along the bed’s edges. Overcrowding creates competition for water, light, and space and can cause stunted or irregular growth, reduced blooms, and poor air circulation, which can lead to disease problems. Also, it requires extra maintenance to continually prune or thin out crowded plants. Don’t forget to look up and note any potential height restrictions, especially utility lines. Plant shorter trees, 30 feet tall or shorter, directly under utility lines and far enough away horizontally that the mature canopy will not grow into the lines (fig 4).

• Plant correctly. Tap the sides and bottom of the container to loosen the root ball from the sides of the container. Carefully slide the root ball out and gently loosen the soil and roots around the root ball. Cut any circling roots and gently pull apart dense, tangled (root-bound) roots, especially on shrubs and trees. Plant the root ball so that the top of the ball is level with the soil at the top of the planting hole. Fill around the plant root ball with the soil that was removed from the planting hole. Gently tamp down the soil around the root ball to remove air pockets and get good root contact with the soil. Prune off any stems or branches that were damaged during planting. For trees, the root flare (where the roots stop and the trunk starts) should be level with the top of the planting hole. For shrubs and trees, dig the hole the same depth as the root ball but three times as wide so new roots can grow outward quickly into the loosened soil.
• Water plants thoroughly to encourage healthy, deep roots. Check after watering to see how deep the water has soaked into the soil, making sure it reaches all the way to the roots at the bottom of the root ball.
• Keep a drawing or map of the new plantings, along with pictures. Mark the areas with new plants, especially seeds, to help you remember what is where. Seedlings and small plugs may be hard to distinguish from weeds until they grow a little.

Establishment (years one to three)

Establishment is the critical time when plants are getting settled into their new home. Whether coming from a nursery or garden center, a plant sale, or another location in the landscape, or being seeded, getting native plants off to a good start means they will be healthier and less susceptible to pests, fill in the space and achieve the end vision more quickly, and be less maintenance long-term. Seeds and annuals can establish in a few weeks, while perennials and vines can take a few months or a year. Shrubs and trees can take up to three years to get established. How quickly a plant becomes established depends on the site, the specific plant, and the maintenance during this important time.

Maintenance considerations during establishment include:

• Inspecting. Know what the native plants are supposed to look like and how they grow, so any problems are identified quickly. For seeded areas of both annuals and perennials, inspect daily for the first two weeks, then weekly for a month. Seeds are particularly vulnerable to wind, trampling, and animals, including wildlife and pets grazing or digging, and to temperature and moisture swings during the first few weeks of establishment. For vines, shrubs, and trees, inspect daily for the first week, then weekly through the first growing year. It is critical to identify and take care of problems swiftly to reduce stress on the plants while they are getting established. Potential problems include animals grazing, digging up, or pulling out the plants; temperature and moisture swings; poor drainage; stormwater washing away mulch, soil, or plants; wind blowing plants over or drying them out; people or pets walking on the plants or vehicles driving over them; insect or disease infestations; and weeds competing with the plants. Regular inspections will not only catch problems quickly but also spark an appreciation of the native plants as they grow and change over time.
• Watering. Watering is probably the most important maintenance practice for successful plant establishment. The most critical period for watering all plants is right after planting and for three weeks after planting. For vines, shrubs, and trees, this period continues through the first growing year. Remember to match the watering frequency to the specific native plant. While enough water must be provided for good establishment, some native plants do not need a lot of water and could be killed if given too much. Always check the soil about an inch deep to see if it is moist or dry, then add water if needed. If there is no rainfall and the soil is very sandy, watering might be required every 2-3 days; otherwise, water once a week. The best time to water is in the early morning so that the plant can absorb water before the long day, and so water won’t evaporate quickly in the heat of the day. Watering at the base of the plant instead of over the foliage helps prevent diseases. Think about access to a water source and how much will be needed. If the garden area is large and near a building, consider using a soaker hose, an oscillating sprinkler, or an irrigation system. If using an irrigation system, set it to run once a week. Invest in a rain sensor to automatically shut off the system when it is raining. For containers, smaller areas, or individual plants, use a bucket or watering can with water from a spigot or rain barrel, or a hose with a rain nozzle. If the garden area is not near a water source, plant in the dormant season (November through February) as long as the ground is not frozen. Plant roots will grow and establish, but there is little to no top growth that requires a lot of water until spring, when rainfall is more likely. If planting shrubs or trees in an area not near a water source, consider using a tree diaper or watering mat (which contains hydrogel) or a watering bag to keep the root ball moist during establishment. Remember, any plant can be killed by overwatering.
• Mulching. Organic mulch, like shredded leaves or hardwood, pine bark, or pine straw, is useful for moderating soil temperatures, conserving soil moisture, adding organic matter to the soil as it degrades, and preventing weeds. Do not use mulch in areas where seeds will be planted or where plant reseeding is desired, because the seeds need good contact with the soil to germinate. A 1- to 2-inch layer of mulch can be used around seedlings (when they are tall enough), annuals, and perennials. A 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch is recommended around vines, shrubs, and trees. In all cases, do not allow the mulch to touch the base of the plant, as this can cause rot. Mulch is very helpful in preventing winter and summer annual weeds by preventing seeds from germinating, but many perennial weeds can grow through the mulch layer. That is why identifying and dealing with any perennial weeds before planting is so important in reducing long-term maintenance. Mulch should only be applied in the first or second year, until plants grow and fill in. Groundcovers can be used as green/living mulches. Leaves (see the “Leave the leaves” section below) and groundcovers make great “soft landing” areas for the caterpillars that complete their life cycles in the leaves or in the ground. Make sure newly planted areas have well-defined bed edges or are marked to indicate that the planting is intentional and is being maintained.
• Weeding. Weeds will always grow in bare ground areas and where plant canopies are thin or not layered. Regularly monitor for weeds. Be able to identify weed seedlings from native plants. Many plant identification apps are now available that can help with this. Try to remove weeds when they are very young to minimize competition with the native plants. Cut weeds off at the ground instead of pulling them out, which would disturb the roots of native plants and the soil, and also create an opportunity for more weed seeds to germinate. If weeds are pulled or dug out, then plant or mulch the area immediately to reduce the chance of more weeds. Identify the weed and understand its life cycle to determine the best time and method for managing it. Winter annual weeds like henbit, chickweed, hairy bittercress, annual bluegrass, and purple deadnettle germinate in the fall, grow through the winter, then produce seed and die in the spring. Summer annual weeds like crab, goose, and stilt grasses, mulberry weed, and spurge germinate in the spring, grow through the summer, then produce seed and die in the fall. Perennial weeds like bermudagrass, nutsedge, wild garlic or onion, English ivy, and poison ivy come back year after year. If a perennial weed was not controlled during site preparation and has not been controlled through other methods, a postemergent herbicide application may be necessary. Use a translocated herbicide that is absorbed into the plant, so it kills the top and the roots. Apply it by painting it onto the weed leaves or by dipping the clippers in the herbicide before cutting the stem off at the ground. These application methods reduce the risk of accidentally damaging nearby native plants by getting herbicide on them, which is easy to do when using a spray. For more information about control of specific weeds, contact the local Extension office or consult the “Home Grounds Pest Management Guide” (publication 456-018) at the Virginia Cooperative Extension website (see Resources section).
• Integrated Pest Management. IPM is an effective and environmentally sensitive approach to pest management that uses a combination of practices to manage pests with the least possible hazard to people, property, and the environment. One of the main reasons people plant native plants is because they support a wide variety of wildlife, including beneficial insects like pollinators (bees, moths, butterflies), birds, turtles, lizards, and toads. These same plants also support predator insects like lady beetles, praying mantis, lacewings, and dragonflies.
  • Example: Using IPM for aphid management. Aphids are a common pest in the landscape. Aphids are small, soft-bodied insects that suck the sap out of plants, reproduce rapidly, and live in large colonies. Frequently inspect the plants to quickly identify an aphid problem. If aphids are present, first monitor the problem to determine if natural predators are controlling them. If not, then these IPM practices can be helpful: cut off the infested plant stem; squirt the aphids off the plants with a water hose; purchase and release additional predator insects that prey on aphids (e.g., lady beetles, lacewings, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps); or apply a horticultural oil or soap that will kill the aphids but won’t harm beneficial insects. An IPM plan would not include using an insecticide to kill aphids because it may also kill beneficial insects through direct treatment or residues left on plants.
  • Example: Using IPM for disease management. Aster yellow virus is spread by leaf hoppers and affects plants in the Asteraceae family, including asters, coneflowers, blazing stars, and black-eyed Susans. There is no chemical treatment for it. Remove the entire diseased plant (including roots) and dispose of it in the trash. Monitor adjacent plants and remove them if they become infected. Replant with a plant that is not in the Asteraceae family. On the other hand, powdery mildew is a fungus that appears as a white powder on leaves and commonly affects beebalm, garden phlox, and oak and maple trees. The disease occurs under certain environmental conditions, such as in shady areas where temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and air circulation is poor. It may cause stunted growth or early leaf drop, but it generally does not kill the plant. So, individually or in combination, use these IPM practices when needed: ignore the fungus; cut off the infested plant stem or branch; prune to thin the plant for better air circulation; move the plant to a full sun location; remove the affected plant, dispose of it in the trash, and replant with a mildew-resistant species; apply a fungicide that is labeled for that specific plant. Do not put diseased plants into a compost pile, which would risk spreading the diseases.

Long-Term Maintenance (year four and after)

When performing long-term maintenance tasks, keep in mind the design intent, goal, or reason for adding native plants to the landscape. Also, remember that plants are constantly changing over time due to natural growth, environmental conditions, and human actions. Long-term maintenance tasks are generally less frequent, occur on a more seasonal basis, and focus more on the plant community than on individual plants.

• Inspecting. A monthly inspection (or as often as desired) is a great way to enjoy the plant community changes and interactions through the seasons, as well as identify any problems. Dealing with issues quickly is not as critical as during the establishment period, though problems should be dealt with in a timely manner. Make sure plants fill both the horizontal and vertical spaces. The canopy layers in a natural plant community from top to bottom include tall trees, understory trees, shrubs, perennials and annuals, and finally ground covers. If you can’t have, or don’t want, all the layers, just do what you can to create a healthy plant community. Each landscape and area within it is unique, and there are many ways to incorporate native plants.

• Watering. Once established, most native plants do not need frequent or regular watering. Check the soil moisture and, if needed, provide 1 inch of water per week during long dry periods. Seeds, annuals, and perennials may need more water, but vines, shrubs, and trees may not need any because of their deeper and wider spreading roots. If an irrigation system is being used for watering, it should run once or twice a week, or only as needed, not every day.

• Mulching. Although mulch might need a refresh in spring during the first two years before plants fill in, it shouldn’t be needed once plants fill in the area. Consider planting shorter plants underneath taller plants as a green/living mulch instead of using wood chips, pine straw, or other organic mulches.

• Pest management. As the plants form a community and beneficial insect populations become established, insect pest problems should be managed naturally. Also, remember that many insects, especially caterpillars that eat plant leaves, are food for birds and other wildlife. Diseases will come and go depending on weather conditions. Stressed plants are more susceptible to insects and diseases. Monitor, identify the pest, and consider all the management options. Many times, the problem is minor or will clear up on its own. If a plant repeatedly gets an insect or disease, consider relocating it and planting a different species in that spot. Regularly monitor for weeds and manage them quickly before they become a bigger problem.

• Thinning and dividing. If plants are falling over onto sidewalks or are tall enough to block views of streets, they can create a hazard and should be pruned back or relocated. If too many plants are crowding each other, prune them back or remove some to restore proper spacing. For example, if a plant seeds prolifically (like joe pye weed, columbine, or a maple tree), or if a plant spreads beyond its allotted space (like aster, beebalm, blue flag iris, or Virginia sweetspire), remove extras by digging out individual plants or by digging out the edges of spreading clumps. The best time to thin or divide plants is October through April or when they are not in bloom (Weisenhorn and Furgeson 2019). They can be planted elsewhere in the landscape, sold or given away, or donated to an organization that could use them.

• Pruning. Only prune when necessary. Prune faster-growing plants so that they don’t crowd out or grow over slower-growing ones. Prune taller plants to make them more compact or full (“Maintenance Cures,” n.d.). Prune plants away from each other to maintain definition for a more formal look. Prune vines, shrubs, and trees to remove damaged, diseased, or deformed branches to maintain their natural shape. Large shrubs like viburnums can also be pruned into small trees by removing lower branches when they are young. This will create different canopy layers. Pruning information and calendars can be found on the Virginia Cooperative Extension website by searching the publications tab.

• Seed saving and deadheading. Leave seeds and fruits on native plants such as blazing star, coneflower, winterberry, and beautyberry through the fall and into the winter. The seeds and berries are good food sources for birds and other wildlife, and they add visual interest throughout the winter. Deadheading is the removal of old blooms to encourage new ones or to keep a plant looking well-groomed. This maintenance practice is performed frequently, can be labor-intensive, and the need for it depends on the intent of the planting. For example, those concerned about aggressive reseeding may want to remove seeds/fruits. Seeds of native plants can be collected for other purposes once they are mature. Research each plant to learn the best time for collecting the seeds. Check for any special collecting, processing, or treatment procedures, such as how to remove the seed from a head, pod, cone, or berry; cold stratifying the seed to ensure germination; or storing seeds in a cool, dry place. Collect seeds, seed heads, or pods when they are dry, and label them with the species name, collection date, and location collected. Seeds can be sown in other parts of the landscape, given away, taken to plant swaps, or donated to seed libraries. Remember that deadheading or collecting seeds will reduce the food available for birds and other wildlife to eat over the winter.

• Save the stems. Resist the urge to cut the leaves of grasses and the dead stems of perennials to the ground in fall or during spring cleanup. Stems of plants like beebalm, joe pye weed, milkweed, mints, and grasses provide overwintering homes, nesting cavities, and places to lay eggs for many beneficial insects, especially some native bees (Satyshur et al., n.d.). Dead grass and leaves are often used for nesting materials. Remember, native plants create a community that many other species rely on year-round for food and shelter. If stems must be cut, consider doing so at a variety of heights between 8 and 24 inches. The remaining stems will provide support for and be covered by new growth quickly in the spring (fig. 5). If stems are cut to the ground to maintain a more manicured look, bundle the stems and either tie them with a ribbon or put them in a brightly painted tomato cage in another part of the landscape until the following fall. Many insects emerge when spring temperatures reach 50 degrees on a consistent basis, but some insects, especially bees, emerge later. With grasses, cut them back in spring just before new growth starts. Grass blades, along with twigs and branches, can be loosely mounded to create a wildlife habitat pile in the landscape.

• Leave the leaves. Insects like centipedes, millipedes, and beetles, and other wildlife like toads, salamanders, lizards, and turtles live in leaf litter (fallen leaves). Bumblebee queens overwinter under leaves, and the polyphemus and luna moths spend part of their lifecycle in leaf litter. Birds like towhees and thrushes forage for food in leaf litter. Fallen leaves help prevent weeds, add organic matter and nutrients to the soil, and help hold moisture in the soil during dry periods. Smaller leaves can be left where they fall, or gathered and spread around plants in the garden. Be sure not to cover the crown of the plant, as this could smother it. Larger leaves can be chopped with a lawnmower and put around plants or in a compost pile.

Reasons for including native plants in a landscape are as numerous as the different opinions about how the plants should look and function. Maintenance plans take into consideration many factors, including the overall design or goal, specific plants, site conditions, owner or user abilities, and budget. Because each situation is unique, maintenance plans are also unique and change as the landscape changes.

Resources

Blue Ridge Partnership for Regional Invasive Species Management (PRISM) (https://blueridgeprism.org) offers invasive plant fact sheets, ideas for management strategies, and information on other resources, events, and programs.

Chesapeake Conservation Landscaping Council(https://www.chesapeakelandscape.org). Anyone can download The Eight Essential Elements of Conservation Landscaping, a 59-page booklet that includes numerous references to incorporating native plants in the landscape. The site also provides information on the Chesapeake Bay Landscape Professional certification program and other resources.

Digital Atlas of the Flora of Virginia (https:// vaplantatlas.org). This site shows which plants grow in specific geographic areas.

Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center (https://www.wildflower.org/learn/container-gardening-native-plants) provides cultural information on native plants along with pictures.

Mt. Cuba Center (https://mtcubacenter.org) near Wilmington, Delaware, publishes reports on its website about native plants, especially in the Mid-Atlantic region.

Plant Virginia Natives (https://www.plantvirginianatives.org) encourages the use of native plants and conservation landscaping practices with 10 regional Virginia guides, links to regional native plant campaigns, and many other resources.

Virginia Cooperative Extension’s website (https:// ext.vt.edu) offers searchable publications, local office locations, and contact information.

Virginia Department of Conservation and Recreation’s Natural Heritage Program (https://www.dcr.virginia.gov/natural-heritage/nativeplants) maintains the Virginia Invasive Plant Species List and offers general information about native plants for the Coastal, Piedmont, and Mountain areas of Virginia.

Virginia Native Plant Society (https://vnps.org/) has local chapters and native plant sales.

Acknowledgements

The authors would like to express appreciation for the reviews and comments provided by the following individuals: Kristopher Criscione, Assistant Professor and Nursery Production Specialist, School of Plant and Environmental Sciences, Hampton Roads AREC,

Virginia Tech; Quinn Bracken, Extension Agent, Henrico County, Virginia Cooperative Extension; Michael Andruczyk, Senior Extension Agent, City of Chesapeake, Virginia Cooperative Extension; Barbara Fair, Extension Horticulture Specialist and Associate Professor, North Carolina State University; and Lisa Kuder, Native

Plants and Landscapes Specialist, Clarksville Facility, University of Maryland Extension.

References

“Maintenance Cures for Floppy Perennials.” n.d. Accessed February 26, 2026. Kansas State Research and Extension. https://www.johnson.k-state.edu/ lawn-garden/agent-articles/perennials/floppy-perennials.html.

Satyshur, C., S. F. Jordan, and H. Holm. n.d. “Creating Nesting Habitat: How to Create Habitat for Stem-nesting Bees.” Accessed February 26, 2026. University of Minnesota Extension, University of Minnesota Bee Lab. https://beelab.umn.edu/create-nesting-habitat.

Weisenhorn, J. and M. Furgeson. 2019. “How and When to Divide Perennials.” University of Minnesota Extension. https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/dividing-perennials.